Author Topic: lengthening the clutch arm  (Read 13836 times)

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Offline gwcrim

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lengthening the clutch arm
« on: September 18, 2004, 12:54:59 AM »
Heyall.  Long time no see.  We built a house this year so I've been kinda busy not riding.

I did manage a few outings on the KX.  I'm tired of the clutch drag and the shaft on the actuator needs a new seal.  Here's my questions:

1) What do you have to go through to change the seal?

2) What do you have to go through to lengthen the arm?

In case anyone wants to see the nuevo casa, there are pics in the Crim Estate folder here:  http://photos.yahoo.com/gwcrim
~Crim~
You raise the blade
You make the change
You rearrange me 'til I'm sane

Offline Paul

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2004, 03:15:28 AM »
Very nice casa de gwcrim. Once the post build wreckage is cleared out and the landscaping takes over that place is going to awesome.  :worship:  

I miss all the green stuff...  :sad:

Offline KXcam22

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2004, 05:40:54 AM »
gwcrim,
  Cool House! I just lengthened my arm (clutch) a month ago. Added 5mm, pretty simple.  I used to think 10mm was the amount but others warned me it was too much (they were right - as usual).  I used a piece cut out of a large 1/2" washer since it was the right thickness. I welded mine with a stick welder - did some thin test pieces first.  Makes a noticable diff.  You should be able to change the seal while the arm is out (it just rotates and pulls straight up). Cam.

Offline gwcrim

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2004, 03:56:12 PM »
Thanks for the tip there, Cam.  Not as bad a job as I thought.  Add it to the winter 'to do' list.

I actually have grass growing all around the shack exept for the very front yard.  I need some big time fill.  ODOT has been gracious enough to leave me what they dig from the ditches.  And that's been a big help.  I sure hate the idea of paying for dirt.
~Crim~
You raise the blade
You make the change
You rearrange me 'til I'm sane

Offline doordie

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clutch
« Reply #4 on: September 23, 2004, 06:21:47 AM »
I have this mods for easy clutch pull (like a kx125 cc). 8)
(I`m a lousy photografer,hehe) :oops:
No lengthening the clutch arm needed.

//doordie
Iceroad champion 2006,still 2007,even 2008 without a single race!

mikesmith

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #5 on: September 23, 2004, 07:35:42 AM »
Doordie, you know all the old tricks!Ha!But I dont like how it moves the lever farther out,but if you have long fingers or it suites your style of riding it works great!

Offline John

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2004, 10:17:41 AM »
Doordie, come on! You have to practice with that new camera of yours... :wink:

Rick

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #7 on: September 24, 2004, 03:41:13 AM »
I tried one of those clutch levers with three spots for the cable end, but it snapped off with the first "little" crash.  I have also tried the EZ Clutch sytems with the stock lever, but had to switch to a KX250 cable to get a decent route.  I finally switched to the FLY Racing adjustable lever, and that did the trick.  I actually had the same lever for about three years, as it has a bearing in the pivot, so I just have to lube once in awhile.  While I carry a spare lever in the tool pouch, I've never needed to install it.

Oh yes, I did not have to lengthen the clutch arm with the Fly Lever, so saved some extra work.

Rick

kawdude

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #8 on: September 29, 2004, 12:41:09 PM »
Pulling the seals and lengthing the arm is fairly simple.  The bearings that support that arm are a different story.

Offline grtsctt

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #9 on: November 02, 2004, 04:33:18 AM »
I will use my new green beast for the dessert, so I don't think I need autoclutch unless you do not have to clutch between gears?(does it clutch between gears?/does it shift easier without the clutch than a stock bike?), although you do not have to shift between gears without it if you roll off the gas.   I hear you still have the clutch lever you can use? I want to baby this new tranny though.  A bro told me that another co.(I forgot the name/doesanyone know the name?) makes an auto clutch also that does not need a wider clutch cover side case as the EFM billett does.  I will write both co's for info to see which is best and I need to decide for sure if I want the $500 investment or not before I buy the EZ lever and mod my clutch arm.  My clutch is stiff as heck compared to my butter 250 clutch.  I thought about changing to 250 springs but scared they can't handle the beast.  Does anyone know about the two levers I have found for EZ pull clutches.  They are MSR Raptor EZ pull clutch lever and RTC clutch lever $40(I think the FLY is $60).  I think both are three position levers(these kits use special levers and you cannot use your stock lever in conjunction I believe).  Is the FLY lever a mechanical advantage lever or just a ball bearing lever or both?  What pulls easier, the bearing style or mech 3 position levers?  I have a feeling I will shine the auto clutch altogether since I don't do any tight trail riding on the beast, and since I love my butter style clutches I will end up with a mechanical three stage lever or FLY first and probably also will extend-weld 5mm onto the clutch arm in conjunction with the EZ lever unless the lever realy works that good??   This is probably my last and best bike so I want it trick.  My next post will be along the lines of our dear departed Rocketscienceracing kits which passed away before the 04 beast did-breaks my heart that the greatest things always get the ax while they are pumping out all this four stroke garbage/Friends don't let friends ride four strokes/Darn treehuggers.  O well, you know what the masses are-can't wait to blow by them on the beast in the future as they creep silently on their electric offroad-scooters.  Great site and thanks for all of your inputs you wonderful big bore 2 stroke Motoheads!
Twist the grip always and take care,
Me

mikesmith

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #10 on: November 02, 2004, 08:17:57 PM »
Forget the 3 position lever(junk)go with the Fly,PC,ASV or works connection on the fly perch and lever as they give better leverage and quick adjust.Lengthen you clutch arm by welding in a 6-8mm extension and you can polish the shaft,reroute the cable (I cant describe how,but I did mine in a more direct way),use a motion pro cable,invest in a cable luber and use it.These are things Ive done for a better pull than most 250's Ive ridden.And Welcome to the best Kawasaki web site!

Offline grtsctt

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #11 on: November 08, 2004, 08:15:03 AM »
Thanks Mike, you are great and fast, and it is the best KX website!
Ty Davis said 5MM, which is small.
Cam said(see post) 10 too much, so he ended up with 5MM.
So, 6-8MM seems long?
I wonder if I could have someone fab me one 8MM long with a second hole at 5MM so I could decide/change to whatever works best?
Question for Cam:what happens when you tried 10MM?(can 10 work with a diff cable etc.)?
I believe you Mike, it's just that 8 is sooo close to 10 when we talk in mm.
I wil prob play it safe with 5, but am tempted to go say 7 or 8 cause I have small hands ans I don't ant beasty clutch to eat my clutch hand.
Sidenote to everyone: I am told Magura in UK makes a Hydraulic clutch like on the stock KTM for around $250, but I was told the feel is weird?
Thanks and keep me posted as I want it right the first time and like butter, and I will take all lof Mikes advice:polishing etc.
Thanks, Me

Offline KXcam22

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #12 on: November 08, 2004, 09:10:01 AM »
GRTSCTT,
   I did 5mm with no problem and combined it with Mikes rerouting of the clutch cable.  The two together made a noticable difference.  My next step would be to put on an aftermarket slippery clutch cable.  One thing to remember is that clutch pull is all about leverage.  More leverage = easier clutch.  Extra leverage can be added at the bar (aftermarket perch) or at the clutch actuation arm (make lever longer).  However, since the amount your clutch lever can travel is fixed (ie. pulled in to the bar is max), more leverage (5mm or 10mm clutch-arm extention) means that the clutch shaft rotates a bit less, so the clutch in not dis-engaged as much.  This is generally not an issue but if the clutch-arm is extended a large amount the clutch could possibly not dis-engage fully and drag.  I have read about those who have done 10mm but not tried it.  As a suggestion, since my 5mm is great you could probably go  8-10 mm with no troubles.  If you have small hands, you could space the lever closer to the bars (a 1/4" lockwasher over the cable beween the lever & housing works great) but then might want to settle for the 5mm so you don't run out of dis-engagement travel.  I am not a fan of dirtbike hydraulic clutches.  I ride with a gaggle of orange bikes and they can't modulate the clutch on nasty technical hills like I can and they all stall lots in the really tough spots (I laugh at them orange guys). Hope this helps. Cam.

mikesmith

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #13 on: November 08, 2004, 08:43:47 PM »
I found a guy whos KTM525 went over a cliff out in the middle of nowhere,and after we dragged it out of there his clutch wasnt working.Im sure it got air in the line from hanging upside down,I wouldnt spend my $$ on one.Thanks for the compliments grtsctt!!

Offline grtsctt

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lengthening the clutch arm
« Reply #14 on: November 15, 2004, 11:04:53 AM »
Cam, what happened when you did 10 MM?
Why was it too much/too long?

Thanks
Scotty/grtsctt