...on my big green tractor (91 KX500 Build)

[cobbs]

wow that a bummer its so easy to change titles and get plates here you can get plate for any bike as long as you have head light, tail light, brake light, horn (bicycle horns work) and a mirror if you have that you can get plates here just get the state troopers to inspect it and your good

[sandblaster]

Yeah it use to be that way here too until the Chinese started selling a bunch of scrap and people were getting them plated left and right.
The good thing about that was if they didn't get themselves killed in the first few months of riding them the bikes broke down and no replacement parts could be found. 

[jgturbo]

Made a bit of progress today:

Tore down the bike and took apart the top end. Looks like the cylinder could use replating. What's a good place to send it? U.S. Chrome perhaps?

Also, the main bearings have a scary amount of play. I can grab the flywheel and wiggle the crank up and down about .025". Not fun. I'm glad I didn't ride it any more than a day!

One more thing: It has, what appears to be, an IMS connecting rod. It says Pro Series on it. The previous owner also took the time to polish the heck out of it. The pic doesn't do it justice, but he did a decent job. Is this rod worth keeping?

Ordered a flywheel puller today. The story will continue in 3-5 business days.

[Polar-Bus]

Also, the main bearings have a scary amount of play. I can grab the flywheel and wiggle the crank up and down about .025". Not fun. I'm glad I didn't ride it any more than a day!

Not good. How does the crank spin ? It's Pretty easy to tell when you have a trashed bearing.  The crank stub could be trashed as well. It almost looks like the LH crank weight has been rubbing the case ? A complete teardown is the only conclusive way to go at this point. I'm also not sure why that rod was "polished"  ? It looks more to me like someone deburred the rod from a prior piston failure that gouged up the rod ?

One more thing: It has, what appears to be, an IMS connecting rod. It says Pro Series on it. The previous owner also took the time to polish the heck out of it. The pic doesn't do it justice, but he did a decent job. Is this rod worth keeping?

Another affirmation resulting from the above stated issue as to why I totally dislike aftermarket...

[RoostDaddy]

There are a few good plating companies out there.  Personally, I like Power Seal.  Great work and customer relations. (I have a cylinder there now)
As for your connecting rod, if your crank is in good shape with no rod issues keep it.  IMO the Pro Series rod is the best rod that was made for the K5.  I have been using these rods in my K5 motors for over 10 years with no issues.  I guess that's why I bought all that I could find and still have 3 sitting on the shelf. (and no they aren't for sale)

[The Flyin Hawaiian]

+1 for Power Seal!

[cobbs]

us chrome and millennium do great work too, millennium claims they have the hardest coating of any company out there.

[jgturbo]

Not good. How does the crank spin ?

The crank spins smoothly. Doesn't bind, doesn't make noise. The balls must still be there. Missing part of the cage perhaps? Hoping it's not play between the bearing and the case. As soon as Motosport decides to ship my super duper $20 flywheel puller I can take a look.

[jgturbo]

I'm looking to repair a few things on my plated frame and then paint it. Can anyone recommended some Kawi green paint?  Not exactly sure what color of green to look for.

[Polar-Bus]

I'm looking to repair a few things on my plated frame and then paint it. Can anyone recommended some Kawi green paint?  Not exactly sure what color of green to look for.

PJ1 made "Kawi KX green" years ago, excellent match, not sure if you can still get it.

[weymouth399]

you can still get it, if you want OEM results you will need blk primer.

Bob W

[jgturbo]

I looked for the PJ1, but I think it's been discontinued.

Question:

How far away from the cylinder surface should the face of the KIPS flap be? Mine is at least .050" away. I worked on my brother's CR250 a while ago and I remember his being much closer. Shouldn't it be as close as possible without touching the rings? Seems like you'd get better low speed compression if it was closer to sealing against the rings.

[jgturbo]

Here's a better picture of the gap I was talking about. I cleaned a bunch of carbon off the flap and now it's even wider. Probably pushing .100"

Has this flap been ground back for a big bore in a previous life?

[oic0]

Here is how mine looks. Dunno if its right either though lol

[jgturbo]

That looks about like mine. Must be normal then! Kawi engineers must have wanted to leave plenty of room for carbon.